Friday, January 04, 2008

Mari Lynn Patrick, Lace Top #23, Vogue Knitting Holiday 2005

Designer: Mari Lynn Patrick, Short Row Shaping Lace Top #23
Magazine: Vogue Knitting Holiday 2005, Page 23

I just finished knitting the High Neck Lace Top #23 from Vogue Knitting Holiday 2005 magazine issue. This pattern (and alas, MOST Vogue Knitting patterns, SO frustrating- haven't they heard of proofing the patterns?) contains MANY uncorrected errors. Some of them are listed below with my take on a fix for the problem instruction set.
I used the discontinued KFI Cashmereno DK in #03 lilac-pink in place of the #301ecru color Anny Blatt Kanpurr 100% silk, as the yardage and wrap count were perfect for making the suggested gauge.
The error found in Row 2 of Front which reads:"K2*K1,(K1,P1,P1) into "made" st of previous row;rep from *, end K2", should be corrected to: "K2*K1,(K1,P1,K1) into "made" st of previous row;rep from *, end K2"
I found another error at Chart 2's 6 st-12 row section (chart definitions) for the knot stitch listed as: “Knot Stitch (K1,P1,K1) into 1 st, turn, K3tog” as this leaves the completed knot stitch on the left needle once you have turned back to the WS to purl the next stitch.

I have two possible “fixes” for this annoying problem:
1. Once turned back to the WS, I slipped the completed knot stitch back to the right needle as if to purl, then continue with the next stitch as the pattern calls for. This would be written as “(K1.P1,K1) into 1 st, turn, K3tog, S1 AS IF TO PURL, TURN”.
2. Re-write as: “(K1.P1,K1) into 1 st leaving stitches on right needle (DO NOT TURN-STAY ON WS) re-knit these 3 newly-made stitches as K3tog (by sliding left needle back into all three loops and knitting into it)”
At the end instruction in the "BEG Chart 2" section, do NOT "Work 1 WS row even" as you have already finished the WS row when your decrease rows have been worked.
I had considerable trouble binding off the Neck Shaping stitches so that they "flowed" smoothly. Even with slipping the first stitch as suggested in an article by Nicky Epstien, these still twisted and looked lumpy. One other thing that drove me nuts was that there was NO info or instructions on HOW to bind off both sides at once in the Neck Shaping section, I finally had to bind off on different sides for the right side shaping than I did for the left side shaping, or else my yarn was not in position to go on. This is the section I would like help doing more elegantly, what would you suggest? I am making a second sweater for a girlfriend, so this is still of interest to learn.

At "Back Armhole Shaping" section, first line states "Work as for back armhole - 69 &3,75) sts." Obviously, that should read "Work as for Front armhole - 69 & 73,75) sts."
Please post any futher errors you might have found, and the fixes you used to knit through these problem areas? Maybe together we can post corrections to Vogue, so that the next person who attempts this very pretty top, doesn't have to struggle through the errors like we did! Can you please post this to your site, as it was unclear how to do that.

Thanks, Candice Massey

Monday, January 09, 2006

Classic Elite, Tweed 2, Fully Fashioned Ribbed Pullover


I gave this pattern 3 stars because I do like the sweater a lot, however, this pattern has so many errors that it actually inspired me to start this blog. It probably deserves only 2. The first mistake they made was the obmission of the chart which they fixed by seding a correction to the distributors. Fortunately, I did get this correction included inside my pattern book when I got it.

Here are the mistakes that I found:
a-) Page 4, middle column, Instructions for front of sweater, line 6:
This are the instructions for the cable pattern to open into the neckband.
Pattern reads: sts to cn, hold in back, p1, k1; p2 from cn;
This instructions are wrong. I was unable to figure out the correct instruction exactly. But I am going to tell you guys what I did. Eventhough it is not perfect it looks fairly nice:
Correction suggested:
sts to cn, hold in front, p1, k1; K2 from cn; P1
Here is a picture of how it came out:

This is not a very good picture, but you can see inthere how the cable is supposed to open up into the neckband. I did my best to achieve this effect with the corrections I am providing, but if there is someone that got a better result doing something different, please go ahead and post it.
b-) Shoulder Shaping. Same page, same column.
The instructions for the back shoulder shaping produce a shape like a ladder on the sides. Something like this:
___| |___
______| |______

However, for the front, since the frond band is in one side, you can only shape the other side. This produces a shape like this:

| |
| |__
| |__
| |__
| |

Therefore, the shape of the front shoulder and the back shoulder are different. I haven't sew them yet, but I am going to do my best to match the two. However, I do see this as a negative problem in the pattern.

c-) NECKBAND: The instructions for the neckband read: "Continue in patt est; work even until Bands meet at center back; BO all sts." In order to join the neckband in the back you will have to knit a 5 1/3" band at each side so you can reach the other end. However, the schematics for the sweater say this band only measures 3". There is no way you will reach the other side with 3". The other problem I find with this band is that it does not give any instructions on how to sew it in the back. Since you will have to make a turn in the join of the shoulder to cover the back of the neck. What should I do here? Probably sew the band to the back of the neck and use my imagination in that turn, maybe sweing the excess of fabric in the corner ? I don't know. But this is also another flaw of the pattern.

d-) SLEEVES. Page 4, Column 3. The words "Cast on" are omitted at the beggining of the sentence.

Thursday, November 24, 2005


  1. Title format: [Company, Yarn, or Designer Name] {Name of book or magazine} [Name of Design] Example: Classic Elite, Tweed 2, Fully Fashioned Ribbed Pullover
  2. Start Post by identifying location of the error in the page. Example: Page 4, Instructions for Front, line #6
  3. Indicate what is the error in the line by copying the entire line and highlighting in red the part of the instructions that you think is wrong.
  4. Provide an alternative (correct) instruction if you think you have the correct answer.
  5. Continue in this manner until all errors in the given pattern have been covered. It is not necessary to have several postings for different errors of the same pattern. One post per pattern will be better.
  6. Contributions from serious knitters only.
  7. Please stay in the topic of this blog.
  8. Be concise and as clear as possible.
  9. Please do not use slang, explain your ideas in a way that can be understood by a beginner knitter.
  10. Do not use any type of offensive language.
  11. Thank you for your contribution! Your posting might save a lot of time to someone else that is trying to figure out what is the problem in their project.